Welcomed by dancing and singing locals on the banks of the pacific, this was my first Samoan arrival of 2015… needless to say it wasn’t my last!

As always, determined to get the most out of the next 9 hours, I had decided to venture to the south of the island where I had heard lay the best beach in Samoa. Again, traveling alone is all well and good, but sometimes, company makes the whole day easier and generally more fun! So accompanied by another act who was up for an adventure I headed to the taxi rank.

The best way to explore Samoa is to get a rough plan in your head before you enter a taxi. If you are unsure, the drivers will take you on their own version of an island tour. That is all well and good, but you will spend quite a bit on taxi fare and will have less time in each place than if you chose just one or two and really explored them for the day.

Our decision was to head to Taufua beach and enjoy the peace and quiet for the whole day. Our taxi driver, Eric, was very happy to take us for the whole day and after we made it clear we ONLY wanted to go to Taufua we set off across the mountainous rainforest covered interior of the island.

Samoa is stunning. It truly is the hidden jewel of the South pacific. Largley unspoiled by huge multinational chain hotels, its villages are both quaint and vibrant. The road across the island steepened sharply, our taxi wheezed up the incline… I looked at my friend, eyebrows raised… getting across this island would seem like a miracle! However, Eric was undaunted and, with a smile on his face, kept his foot on the gas. As we finally reached the summit, the reason for this route became clear… a perpetual rainbow greeted our eyes!

Suspended over a valley, which looked more like the set of Jurassic Park than anywhere I have ever been, hung a perfect spectral arc. Through the mists of the hidden waterfalls that fed into rainforest canopy the rainbow shone almost tangible in the sky. According to Eric, it rarely fades and can be seen at all times of day from this particular spot. In the distance we could see all the way to the pacific shore we had left that morning. It was truly beautiful.

Having taken our fill of pictures, we set off once again for Taufua. 2 hours after setting off, we arrived to a strip of white sand dotted with bright painted Fales. Bruce, a sweetheart of a man, and the owner of the facilities greeted us kindly. Eric was seated at the bar, our food and drink tab open to him as he waited for us throughout the day. In no time a Fale was prepared for us and we were settled.

Taufua Beach is stunning, protected by a barrier of coral which stops any large waves getting to the shore. The result is a crystal clear lagoon style beach , perfect for lazing in the gentle surf with tiny fish swimming all around you. As I walked to the sea, my friend pointed out that my footprints were the only footprints to be seen. The pristine sand was unbroken all the way to the rocky breakwater. Tiptoeing on virgin sand we explored the coastline, coming across trees that begged to be climbed and corals that begged to be swam to. We wiled away the hours with a little indulgent champagne (to celebrate the end of a working week!) as Bruce presented us with ice cream cocktails and nibbles.

 

As the sun started to descend we motioned to Eric that it was time to head back to Apia… a couple of Rum and Cokes hadn’t dampened his enthusiasm for a drive home! Exchanging worried looks we got back into the car… thank goodness his taxi was only able to reach about 30mph! 2 hours later we were back where we started, sandy footed and sunkissed.

A cosmopolitan in the crows nest bar was called for as we sailed into the sunset for Fiji.

A magical day had been had once again!

The Mai Tai

If you find yourself in Honolulu for a shockingly short amount of time… don’t just wait for your flight home or your connection, get yourself to Waikiki! As I have said before on this blog, despite its crowded beaches and constant buzz, it is an iconic piece of Americana which MUST be experienced. Whatever your budget, there is an activity for you! Whether you want to just lay on the beach and soak up the Hawaiian sun (that’s free!), take an hour for a private surf lesson ( http://www.faithsurfschool.com can give you one for $125) or go and search out the local Humpback Whales and Turtles (prices range from $20 to $70 depending on who you ask), there’s something waiting for you on this 2 mile stretch of sand.

At this time of year I seem to regularly find myself doing a quick stop over in Honolulu while waiting to join a ship, and as it is a 24 hour journey from my home to this pacific island… I insist on making the most of it!

As the sun rose on my jet lag on a February morning this year, I found myself wandering west down Waikiki looking for something to do. I had woken stupidly early as I was still on UK time and was eager to bust the jet lag with a swim. As the sun got hotter I came across the Mai Tai! The Mai Tai is a small catamaran which docks on the west end of Waikiki, for $50 you can leave at 10:30am to swim with the turtles out in Turtle Canyon then sail east towards Diamond Head till 1:30pm… AND your lunch and drinks are included!

We set off with the ocean waves bumping us around as we made our way straight out to sea about a half mile. Dropping anchor we we immediately surrounded by turtles of all sizes! Jumping into the waves I was floating with countless of these serene animals. An hour with these guys will set you up for any onward journey… I promise!

The next time I returned to Waikiki I had even less time. My flight was scheduled for that evening and I only had a few hours free! This time I caught a catamaran from outside the Pacific Beach Hotel which was heading out to find some humpbacks that had been sighted earlier in the day. For $20 (that’s £13!!) you can spend an hour out on the ocean getting close to the huge humpbacks that roam around the island waters. The friendly guys sailing the boat and Sarah, the lady on land, do all they can to make you feel comfortable, including looking after your bulkier items (or items you want to stay dry) while you whale watch.

Filled with excitement and cooled by the huge waves that kept dashing us, we fixed our eyes on the horizon. The first blow of air signaled a pod! As we looked on, 4 huge humpbacks broke the surface, rising and diving in the bay. For about 20 minutes we glided by, just watching them play and show off for the bigger whale watching boats that floated just a bit further out. As they disappeared we turned and headed, satisfied, back to land. Just an hour had passed! I still had 3 hours left before I had to head to the airport! Whatever could I do next?

Surfing. Now I have to tell you, if you’ve been reading this blog for a while you know that I am happy to try things and have a near 100% rate of having an amazing time… however… when the red flags are out on Waikiki… don’t decide you can teach yourself to surf!

I made the mistake of taking myself out on a rented body board to catch some waves. The current was very strong but I believed that I could handle it.. how hard could it be? It turns out… quite hard!. I am a strong swimmer and was also wearing fins, BUT the current ended up tossing me around quite violently. Hauling myself back to the beach after wrestling with a very pointy rock I was relatively unscathed, other than a few scrapes and bruises. I must impress on you that if you want to surf on Waikiki take the proper precautions and always have a lesson first! It can be amazing if done correctly… but without training you put yourself at risk!

The hours had passed! My check in time was approaching. Tired, happy and with sand covered feet, I made my way to the airport. Just a day in Honolulu had once again given me so many memories! I cant wait to return!

Traveling in the last few days of Cyclone Pams tour of the south pacific, tensions were high as I boarded the plane for Fiji in LAX. The passengers were made up of mainly rescue workers heading to Vanuatu to help with the humanitarian effort following the destruction of the entire island. These wonderful people were giving their time and risking their safety to help those stuck in the aftermath of the cyclone… it really was a pleasure to travel with them.

I have to say the journey was as painless as possible… From LA I had to travel to Nadi, Fiji in order to catch a flight to Apia, Samoa. This was supposedly my destination until I heard that the itinerary had changed, and wonderfully Pago Pago would be the the last stop. Travelling from the tiny airport in Apia we bumped along the runway and headed out across the reef strewn ocean to American Samoa. We arrived in Pago Pago via the interisland hopper (previously mentioned on this blog in August 2014 https://cocktailswithpiranhas.wordpress.com/2014/08/26/samoa-2-days-1-broken-plane-6-lost-suitcases-1-angry-crab-and-a-partridge-in-a-palm-tree/ ).

Our flight to Pago Pago

Hidden down the coast in Pago Pago in American Samoa, is a slice of paradise. Tisa’s Barefoot beach, run by a man only known as ‘Candyman’, is a Robinson Crusoe hideaway perfect for an adventurous traveller who just wants to be surrounded by nature and the ocean whilst sipping Candymans own personal pina colada recipe out of a coconut.

                                    Candyman serving up Mahi Mahi                    Me and Candyman

‘Tisa’s’ had been recommended to me by countless other travellers, and so I was desperate to get myself there. Arriving at the Tradewinds Hotel at lunchtime, (http://www.tradewinds.as/), I dropped my bags and headed straight for a taxi, bringing with me as many people as I could convince to come for a day exploring the reef.

The first thing that stuck me was how empty it was. Candyman was washing the decks as we arrived, obviously not expecting people, however he immediately welcomed us and got us food and drinks! The rooms overlooking the beach were rustic and cosy, giving us shelter from the hot intermittent rain.

As the clouds parted, I couldn’t wait any longer! Grabbing my snorkel I headed out to the ‘drop off’. About 30 metres out to sea the turquoise water changed to a deep velvet blue signifying the change in depth. I have to say, I was NOT expecting the beauty and diversity I found beneath the waves at Barefoot beach. Once you approach the drop off, the coral spirals in and out of the crevices. It’s like looking down on a skyscraper with different balconies on every level. The reef inhabitants glided in their hundreds past caves and under rocks. Bright butterfly fish darted by, lined surgeonfish filled my view, spotted parrot fish darted in and out of caves just beyond my reach. In the shallows Shrimpgoby sat in sandy homesteads watching the world drift by.

                                    Lined Surgeonfish                                               Butterfly Fish

Hours that seemed like minutes passed as I drifted with the tide further out to sea until I reached the big blue empty space of the pacific… only the hunger in my belly dragged me back to land!

Diving through the crevices…

                                   The beach                                                         Puffer Fish

After a fantastic lunch of grilled banana and Mahi Mahi, (accompanied by a hungry cat and a doleful eyed dog!) the rain started again in earnest. The only solution? …To get back into the warm ocean and let the storm pass over us as we swam! As the afternoon became evening the sky was filled with huge fruit bats (the size of dogs!) sweeping through the air into the trees. As their shadows passed overhead heading into the rainforest, it struck me that this was indeed one of the closest places to natures paradise I have been .

Huge Fruit Bats

Banded Sea Snake

I returned the following day to crowds of people all enjoying the reef and Candymans incredible service. The feel was utterly different as the bar buzzed with noise and the beach was covered in towels, yet it was just as wonderful. At low tide I headed back to the drop off… this time to be greeted by a Banded Sea Snake, although their venom is highly dangerous, these snakes are very docile and are unlikely to attack unless stepped on, and so, giving them a wide birth, I headed out to sea. The day passed in a similar fashion to the first: food, coconut water and diving. Heaven!

 

In all Tisa’s is a place you MUST visit if traveling through American Samoa. The accommodation is beautiful (although I didn’t actually stay there), the company is friendly and the place itself… well… take off your shoes… Barefoot Beach wins hands down!

    

Very rarely does a day so fully exceed my expectations! Where to start?! Fiji is a country of great contrast and great beauty. The tourist resort of Nadi in the north is chocked full of 5 star resorts and honeymooning couples, whereas the captial Suva in the south is a working city on the edge of poverty. Both are about 5 hours apart by road making them both hard to visit in a day. We arrived in Suva at dawn on a Wednesday, bags packed and ready to start the 36 hour journey back to London… but first we were afforded 20 hours in Fiji! All immigrated and full of excitement at 9am we headed to the hotel to drop our bags. Where should we go? We had only 1 day to explore one of the most beautiful places on earth and options close to the southern city of Suva were limited according to all we asked. Just as we were losing hope, a young bellboy appeared in my hotel room doorway.

“Do you want to go to heaven?” he asked

“Absolutely!” I replied.

He spoke to our driver, we had no idea where we were going except that there were allegedly wild dolphins and it was 3 hours away! Our driver had never been before and seemed as eager as us to have an adventure!

Essentials packed and full of beans… we headed into the unknown!

The best thing about travelling to places for just one day is you have to be brave. You can’t just ‘wait until tomorrow’ to do something because tomorrow, you’ll be somewhere else, or on a plane home! If an opportunity to see or so something presents itself, you HAVE to go for it. And so, as we bounced along dirt roads (with our driver asking every villager we passed if we were going the right direction) my excitement was beginning to bubble over!

Finally, we arrived at an old wooden sign that read ‘Takalana’… we had arrived!

I can only describe this place as a hidden bit of paradise. So far off the beaten track that only one tourist had ventured there in the previous month, we got out of the taxi to utter silence, broken only by the crash of distant waves.

Sophia, a bustling woman with a a baby on her hip, appeared on the verandah grinning ear to ear. Welcoming us to her home, she instantly gave us a fabulous bungalow, complete with kitchen and ocean view balcony as our home for the day, and informed us she would make us lunch after we returned from her brothers boat as he was just about to go out to see the wild dolphins! Blind sided and fascinated we just nodded and went with it!

Sat in a boat that seemed older than myself, we set off to moon reef. Moon reef is found 2 miles off the east coast of Fiji and is home to a family of spinner dolphins as well as a cornucopia of fish and ocean wildlife. The shades of blue were countless as we approached and the silence somewhat overpowering.

The dolphins stayed hidden, but we didn’t mind as we headed straight into the pacific for some time on the reef. Heated water, as warm as a bath, bubbled through the coral as colourful fish darted around my hands.

Hungry and thirsty we headed back to land!

Oh my… how could we know that a feast would be waiting for us?! The whole family, including baby and dog sat with us, as we saw a table covered in fresh coconuts, barbecued chicken and sticky rice! The next hour passed with laughter, chasing a toddler, playing with Snoopy the dog and chatting with Sophia and her family as we planned to venture up the mountain to a waterfall where you could swim!

What a trek! Without a path, the journey up the mountain through the jungle was an adventure in itself! Forcing our way through the undergrowth and mud we reached a clearing where a waterfall cut a deep dark pool through the rock.

Swimming in the pool! How refreshing!

Dinnertime was approaching and we had no idea of the delights that awaited us back at the beach! Hot, wet and covered in mud, we made our way back down the mountain to Takalana beach.

The whole family had invited the community to join us for dinner! Musicians started to arrive from the village, more and more people started to arrive. The men built fires on the sand as the women stoked huge barbecues covered in fresh catch from the reef! Music filled the air and conversation was plentiful. As darkness fell we were inducted into the community with the local drink ‘cava’. Now ‘cava’ is a mild narcotic brewed from roots of local Fijian plants!! Served in coconut shells, just a sip is enough to accept the hospitality of your hosts. So one sip later I was very glad to become part of the most friendly village I have ever visited!

As the night progressed, our poor taxi drivers wife kept calling asking why he was now 13 hours later than he planned! We said our goodbyes and headed back south towards Suva. The smell of smoke filled my hair as a reminder on the journey home of the magic that we experienced that day. If you ever go to Fiji I’d say, skip the tourist hotspots, and make your way to Takalana! It has the best hospitality and best accommodation you’ll find. ( http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Hotel_Review-g294334-d1019402-Reviews-Takalana_Bay_Resort-Viti_Levu.html )

The amazing reef!

Takalana…It’s real, it’s heaven, and it’s waiting for you!

After a 7am immigration, I entered incredible India intent on another adventure. Kochi is nestled on the coast of the Arabian sea in the state of Kerala. A vibrant, noisy city filled with colour and music, Kochi was a wonderland I couldn’t wait to explore.

As I have said before in my posts, traveling alone in India as a woman is possible but not advisable. Yes, I am a female solo traveller and have no qualms venturing into any place that seems interesting, however, wisdom is accepting that not all places are equally safe. This friendly vibrant place is still a way behind in accepting single women as a voice to be reckoned with, so knowing this, I always find it wise to travel with a friend. The great thing about my work is there is (nearly) always another act traveling solo and in need of company too! And so, at 6:30 am I knocked on the door of a fellow act… the two of us were about to have an adventure!

The first thing that hit me were the smells. As we made our way to the line of Tuk Tuks waiting for the first fare of the day, the aroma of spices, hot dirt and salty water filled my senses. We agreed a daily price ($40/£26 for all day) and our driver whisked us away out of the heavily policed gates and into India!

Traffic weaved perilously close to our open sided rickshaw churning hot exotic fumes in our already dusty faces… I could already tell it would be a great day!

Firstly we made our way to what I can only describe as a cottage industry mill making saris from scratch. Sitting crossed legged by a spinning wheel surrounded by a haze of incense, a partially blind woman span yarn into thread. She then took the thread to one of the three looms in the room to weave into stunning silks which, when completed, are taken across the alley where a group of talented seamstresses create beautiful Saris.

Venturing across the alley we were presented with an array of Saris to chose from! One caught my eye… a sky blue and gold silk affair… I was sold. Amazingly, I was measured for a blouse and told to return later that afternoon to pick up my very own custom Sari! What a great start to the day!

With 4 more hours to explore we headed to a ginger refinery. Boxes that looked like props from Indiana Jones were piled high in a sun-bleached warehouse, stocked full of dried spices. The overwhelming smell of ginger lingered in the air, catching in the throat and the eyes, burning and sweet. In the heat of the sun, root ginger lay piled on the courtyard floor drying slowly before being ground and shipped worldwide. Through a shady door into an old stone barn, two elderly ladies sorted the dried roots as though they were panning for gold. Venturing into the shade, we watched for a while as they rhythmically sieved the powder into the air where it whirled and flurried like spicy snow. Turning to us, the women offered us the chance to try it ourselves. Coughing and spluttering, but having a great time, we sieved and sorted until our lungs forced us back into the hot outdoors!

                  

Now, every time I venture abroad, I have a secret hope. A secret plan to achieve something or see something special. That week, I secretly really wanted to see an elephant. Today was my only chance! But we were in a city… wherever would I find an elephant? Dropping it into conversation with our driver I sat back and waited… we’d see what he could do!

As you’ll know if you’ve read any of my other posts, I love to see temples. I feel they are windows into the true culture of a people. They are the places where births, deaths and marriages are celebrated. The places where people bring their worries their triumphs and their fears. As such, they harbour a truth to them that I find incredibly attractive and are the top of my list when it comes to sight seeing.

There are quite a few Hindu temples in Kochi, but only one that welcomes in non-Hindu guests to view the inside for one hour a day. 12 noon on the dot we arrived as they opened the temple gates. Taking off our shoes at the door, we tiptoed over burning hot tiled floors into a myriad of buildings and rooms. Burning herbs fragranced the air as miniature carved elephants danced in welcome at every doorway. In the cool interior, fresh flowers lay cut by each deity, all secluded in their own alcove protected from the entropy of the outdoors. A commotion in the courtyard took us back outside into the fierce midday sun. An old man, surrounded by tourists, was beginning a ritual.

He chanted and threw bird feed on the main temple courtyard floor… suddenly thousands of pigeons descended on the temple. The chanting became more frenzied, the crowd became more excited, I looked at my friend… what was happening?!… I have to admit, neither of us had ANY IDEA what was going on. I asked an old man stood next to me what was happening, he looked at me, shook his head and said… “well… see that man. He’s doing something with the pigeons.” … To this day I still have no idea what was going on! Wonderful India!

As we travelled on, our Tuk Tuk driver turned to us… “Do you still want to see an elephant?” ,

I practically jumped up and down in the back seat! “Yes!!”

For a small bribe, the local Hindu monks would let us into the holy elephant enclosure and let us see them resting with their trainers! I couldn’t believe it! I was going to see an elephant!

I have to admit, I am not a fan of the chains that were shackling these magnificent creatures. Just looking in their eyes you can see their gentle nature. However, they did seem relaxed and calm in their wide enclosure whilst they and their trainers ate lunch under the cypress trees.

A quick swing round the fishing district on the way back to the ship and a pit stop to pick up my Sari, (ready for the following nights Raj Ball), took us back to where we began. With aching muscles and filthy feet we staggered back to our cabins… what a lovely day!

 

I had to make my way home from American Samoa to London. A journey that included 4 flights, one broken prop plane, one grumpy crab, 6 lost suitcases, a pit stop in New Zealand and a stunning hotel in Apia.

We arrived in Pago Pago, American Samoa, early in the morning and travelled straight to airport to catch our early plane to Apia. As if things ran so smoothly!

The tiny plane to take us across the pacific to the island of Samoa sat broken on the runway. There was someone who could fix it… but they were in Apia… our destination. Without a plane. After 8 hours sitting on the tarmac, the crowd of people waiting board the 12 seat plane grew to over 50 including the Samoan rugby team and their families! We decided to hop on the bus (a bus strangely named Titanic for some reason!) to the local MacDonalds and grab some food as the time stretched on. As we dozed on piles of bags… dodging the odd stowaway red crab or two… a plane landed… and took off again…. Well at least the mechanic was there at last.

Local ‘titanic’ bus!

Our plane!

A very angry stowaway!

We suddenly realised that the crowds were all jostling to be on the first plane out! We needed to be on that plane! Brilliantly, the classical flautist travelling with us, Anne, had an entrepreneurial idea… She grabbed myself and the wonderful ‘Two on Tap’, taking us to the security office where one security guard sat eating a burger (Anne had popped to MacDonalds earlier to get in their good-books! What a gal!).

“We’re all acts” she cheekily said to the guard. “ We just got off a ship. She sings, [Pointing at me!], they dance [pointing at Two on Tap] and I play the flute. If we do a little show for you now, can we please get on the first plane out of here?”

He laughed. “Go on then!”

Right there in that tiny room, tired and desperate, I sang Gershwin songs whilst Ron and Melissa tapped and Anne played the middle eights!! It was the most bizarre part of the day so far. So far….!

Pleased with our efforts, we went back to waiting. And waiting. We killed time sharing dirty jokes with one of the island chiefs (also waiting for our plane) and getting to know each other. I have to say, if I was going to be stranded, I was glad it was with these guys. We laughed and talked until our flight was called.

Chief showing off his tattoos!

After another wait with the chief in the lounge, we walked out into the hot evening to the seemingly fixed plane. As we started to board the five of us were told o stay by the door… the ceiling of the plane had fallen into the cabin and they were appearing to be gaffer taping it and hitting it very hard back into place.

Just then… the heavens opened.

And so, sheltering under the wing of a tiny prop plane we passed the last few moments in American Samoa and watched the ship we had all left at early that morning sailing away into the pacific mist.

When the plane roof was taped back together, and pilot was convinced that the earlier broken propeller was starting to turn again, we set off for Apia!

Manically terrified before take off!!

Storm rolling in… before take off!

My seat was pretty much in the cockpit. Huge levers and buttons close enough to touch had me sitting on my hands. As we taxied the lady next to me gripped my hand. Our whitening knuckles locked together we laughed all the way across the international dateline to Samoa. An hour later… we arrived. 25 hours after we had taken off. As we taxied to the teeny tiny terminal, the pilot and co-pilot turned around to face us, their thumbs up. We’d made it. Our bags…? They didn’t.

                                  Me and the Pilot                                            … my seat….!

Good luck!

Video taken of us mid air!!!

Mostly bagless, but with whatever we could find, we headed to the hotel. We needed food… and I needed a cocktail! Our waiter for the evening heard we were dancers, singers and musicians and came over to sing us a fantastic local song! Just brilliant! The rum was flowing and the journey was on a break… I started to relax.

A fire show, a great meal and a couple of cocktails later, exhausted, I slept the sleep of the dead.

The Tanoa Tusitala hotel in Apia is beautiful, if you ever have reason to travel to Apia, its a fabulous place to stay, http://www.tanoatusitala.com/ . After a great breakfast and a morning in the pool, the errant suitcases arrived at the hotel, and we took a breath set off for our next stop… New Zealand!

Tanoa Tusitala Hotel

Next stop New Zealand!

 

 

I was eating an omlette and stirring a cup of English breakfast tea by the window as we glided towards Maui. I was up earlier than I thought, jet leg from a few days earlier had left my body clock somewhere over the mid-west US, meaning I was raring to go as the rest of the ship rattled slowly to life around me. A small splash about 20 metres from the window caught my attention. I kept my eyes focused on the spot a few moments, trying to see if it was anything interesting… A whale! A huge humpback whale broke the surface, rearing out of the water and crashing onto its back.

I dropped my spoon.

No one around me seemed to react… hadn’t they seen it? Why were they not dropping their spoons too? Another whale joined the first… then another… and another. I stopped counting at 16 whales! As more people noticed, more forgotten cutlery dropped, this was breakfast entertainment at its best. As we dropped anchor, the pod surrounded the ship, leaping in turns as I, and countless others, poured onto deck with our iPads and cameras trying to get a good shot.

Although these are pictures of humpacks in Maui… I didn’t take them. I’m not that good!

After an hour, and an inordinate amount of snapshots and shaky video (far to blurry to be displayed here!), I made my way to shore. I had 9 hours in Maui and I wasn’t going to waste it!

I have found one of the best things to do when in a beautiful place for a very short time, is to ask a taxi driver where their favourite place is, and go there! That is exactly the choice I made that morning. I had befriended a young woman from LA a few days earlier, she was travelling alone like me and desperately wanted a day of relaxation and fun on the island. With our other halves across the other side of the world and valentines day only hours away, we decided mimosas and brunch were in order.

The taxi driver set off on our 30 minute drive to Napili bay, just north of Lahaina, Maui, and his recommendation of the best brunch on the island. Vibrant green mountains erupted into view, haloed by the morning mist. The mist leant a pastel quality to the colourful flowers, that I knew, in a few hours time would be blindingly bright.

Handing us a complimentary bottle of water and wishing us a nice day (along with pointers for how to get the local wifi!… what a gentleman!) our driver dropped us by some stone steps leading to white sand. Still only 8:30 am, families were starting their descent down the rocks to the sheltered cove, ready for a lazy day of sun. The sand was virgin. The ocean was quiet and clear. Tall palm trees cast mosaic shadows on the beach. It was a little bit of heaven. The sand was so inviting I decided to write a valentines message to my hubby-to-be instead of the valentines card I had forgotten to post!

Spying a rental hut, I traded $15 for some snorkelling equipment then settled on my towel to watch the sun creep higher. Maybe an hour passed, maybe two. I’m not sure, but I was only interrupted from my reverie by my acute awareness that my 5am omlette had worn off and the earlier talk of mimosas was calling to me!

Just above the rocks lies The Sea House. (http://seahousemaui.com/) The Sea House is a fabulous establishment set on the edge of Napili bay with wide glass windows staring out to the turquoise ocean and shaded by giant palm trees. Espressos and bagels ordered, we sipped mimosas and chatted about all sorts. I enjoyed getting to know my new friend. I still find it strange how circumstance can bring two complete strangers from different continents together so far from their homes so effortlessly. I truly don’t know what we talked of. Most likely college, men, favourite cocktails… whatever. I do know it was easy and relaxed.

Morning stretched to afternoon as we swam, snorkelled, dozed, ate and drank. I should probably say we achieved something worthwhile, but we didn’t. We just had a lovely time. If you get chance to visit maui, do visit Napili bay. Do have a bite to eat at The Sea House and watch the surfers paddle through the cove.

Napili Bay

The taxi ride back to Lahaina flew by. With an hour to spare we pottered around stores, picking up the obligatory fridge magnet, before bobbing back to the ship, amidst the whales we’d left at dawn. We sailed away as the sun started to set and the island turned gold. I cannot describe the simple beauty of that day. Suffice to say, I can’t wait to go back!

                      

This may annoy those of you who think travelling alone is easy, but, my advice as a woman travelling alone in Mumbai is always find someone to accompany you when venturing into the city. I don’t mean to be anti-feminist or come across as weak, but it is always best to be safe. When faced with the prospect of travelling into the city alone in April I approached two couples I’d recently met on the ship. I didn’t have a fixed idea of where I wanted to visit in the city so I was happy to join them and see what they wanted to see. So, ludicrously early one morning as the temperature topped 80 degrees, the 5 of us, holding our bright yellow immigration cards, traipsed across the tarmac to the port gates. Train services carrying men to work rolled past us, creaking on their rusty tracks. Every now and  then men jumped down and sauntered to their place of work. Stripping off, they showered together by the street chatting together as they readied themselves for work.  As we exited the port, hoards of taxi drivers jostled for business, teenage girls holding tiny babies begged for change whilst police blew whistles to control the surge.

 

Suddenly I was gripped by the arm and saw Keith (one of the men from the ship I had ventured ashore with) and his wife, dragging me toward the taxis. Men started to shout at me then suddenly stopped as Keith shouted… “This is my daughter”. Apparently that’s all I needed to be for a free pass! So as Keiths daughter, with his lovely wife, (and the on-board art teachers, George and Mearle) we started our journey into the centre of Mumbai.

The taxi took us past the buildings I remembered from a few months earlier. The colonial buildings wrapped in vines and spiralling cracks, the train station standing huge and imposing over the busy streets. Cows roamed free and buses grumbled into spaces that seemed far too small!! Our taxi driver and George chatted about cricket as we wound our way to the Taj Mahal hotel.

Shops were only just beginning to open and street vendors were setting out their wares for the days trade. The ladies began to shop… Keith and George accustomed to this, took up residence outside shops befriending local kids whilst their wives picked up silks and hair-clips and I stocked up on Indian cloting for my sister and neice.

Now my husband has always said you can recognise people who have ‘been travelling’ as opposed to people who happen to travel, as the former always have a pair of travelling trousers. What are travelling trousers? I hear you ask. Well, travelling trousers are generally a pair of trousers that are baggy and are only acceptable wear if you are on a desert island or in the far east. If you wear them in the UK or anywhere else they can be seen as a sign you’ve ‘been travelling’ or on a gap year. It’s not a great look! Now, in the centre of Mumbai… I found some travelling trousers. Taken over by a fit of idiocy… I bought them… I still have them. I have no idea when I will wear them again… but their scratchy sequinned patchwork still lights up my closet!

Our happy rabble in the Taj Mahal Hotel

Armed with travelling trousers, saris and bags of impulse purchased beads we set off for the Taj Mahal Hotel bar… it was time for a drink.

The friendly Mr Mistry was our barman in the hotel. We sat in the booth he excitedly told us had been frequented in days gone by by John Lennon, as he talked to us about the 30 years he has worked in this one tiny bar in the most famous hotel in India. I ordered a Bombay sapphire…. (it had to be done!) whilst the others snacked on incredible vegetarian delights and listened to his stories.

From the window we could see the towering Gateway to India, surrounded by crowds of tourists. What a moment to remember forever… The opulence of that hotel is in so much contrast to the city buildings around it. You cant escape the juxtaposition of poor and insanely rich in Mumbai.

Changing into the travelling trousers (to save my skirt getting any more ripped) we made our way from the hotel to the huge monument by the bay. The gateway to India.

There are some very enterprising people working the crowds by the gateway. Men carrying printers and digital cameras take perspective pictures of tourists, selling them for a dollar. As I stood next to the monument a crowd of people gathered. I thought they were all waiting to take a photo from the angle I had chosen… then when I moved… so did they. The man with the printer it became apparent was charging people $1 to have photo taken with the blonde girl! Before I knew it I was posing next to the Gateway being handed babies and children whilst the enterprising young gentleman made his daily wage from the pictures!

Making my excuses, we headed back to the taxi. With 5 people and 4 seats… I fit snugly into the boot! Laughing with the driver as we rattled around the city, packages balanced all around me, I decided I need to see more of India.

Sitting in the boot!                                                                     Crazy vine covered streets!

My first foray into India was brief and stressful. A 6 am immigration… followed by a frantic transfer to Mumbai international airport staring through the bus window at places I wished to explore but had no time. Numerous baggage scans and personal searches, (I stopped counting at 11!), followed by an obligatory curry for breakfast and a 9 hour flight back to London didn’t make for a true first impression of this huge diverse country.

My second experience in India was a world apart. I have fallen in love with this crazy beautiful and vibrant place. Arriving in Chennai (formally Madras) the capital of the Tamil Nadu state, in April, the heat was palpable. Huge birds circled the ship as we drew closer into land. (one such pterodactyl stole my sandwich! A full size sandwich!!) The water was filled with small boats dashing in and out of our way. I could see the 19^th century vine covered buildings jostling with each other as far as the eye could see.

The obligatory immigration completed I was free to travel into the local area. A short ride to the port gates were a string of tuk tuks. With 2 of my fellow acts, crammed into the back of the canary yellow rickshaw we set off to explore the city before dusk fell.

What can I say about the journey!!??? Families of 4 on one motorbike squealed past us, we turned right… (now that is terrifying!) and negotiated our day with the driver. The itinerary agreed on, our new friend dropped us at the main fabric marketplace, agreeing to pick us up later. Chennai is very different to Mumbai as there are so few people in western dress. The women were all in a sari or a salwar and my Forever 21 maxi dress stood out like a sore thumb! A blonde woman in India is hard to ignore and the stares followed me down the street. I wanted a Sari.

Chennai Silks called out to me! It was like going back to the 1970’s! If you ever watched ‘Are you being served?’ then you would recognise the Chennai silks outlet! Hardwood tables lined the cavernous shop while men brought water and snacks to those who browsed. The first floor was filled with gold filigree jewellery and precious stones. Saris for every occasion filled the fourth floor… all eyes were on me. I obviously looked lost. By this time I was a woman alone in a country where I spoke no local language and had no idea how the shop worked. I took a deep breath:

“I’d like a sari” I managed to a young man who stared quizzically at me.

“fancy sari?” he said

I gave him a number of roupees I was willing to spend… immediately I was whisked away into a corner with 5 men and 2 women. Lost in a rainbow of silks I started to shop. 1 hour later… several carbon paper copies of credit card receipts and multiple papers stating ownership (stamped by 3 desks before I could carry the good outside!) later… I had a beautiful new sari!

The best was yet to come. The afternoon continued with a journey to the universal temple. The layers of dirt that filled the residential streets on the way to the temple stopped abruptly at the gates. Inner city highway suddenly became silent terracotta framed with palm trees and white marble. People drifted up the steps towards the huge doors… I followed. Taking off my shoes I washed my feet and climbed the stairs. The first thing that hit was the silence. Utter peace in a high ceilinged space. I sat cross legged on the womens side, unsure of what I should be doing. Then I realised, I was doing exactly what I should be doing. Just being there. Enjoying it.

The universal temple is actually called Sri Ramakrishna math. Ramakrishna Math is a monastic organisation for men brought into existence by Ramakrishna (1836–1886), a 19th-century saint of Bengal. The motto of the Ramakrishna math and Ramakrishna  Mission is: “For one’s own salvation, and for the welfare of the world”. Sri Ramakrishna Math, Chennai is the first branch center of the Ramakrishna Order in Southern India. It was started in the year 1897 by Swami Ramakrishnananda, one of the direct disciples of Ramakrishna. (for more see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sri_Ramakrishna_Math,_Chennai )

As the sun began to set we left the temple and ventured through to the monastery part of the complex. As I rounded to corner to the meditation garden I passed two young women who smiled and waved over to me. Taking the opportunity I went over to them.

“Are you American?” one of the girls asked.

“No, English” I said

She perked up excitedly! “Oh where from!!!?? I trained as a doctor in Manchester. I lived in west Didsbury when I was a student!”

What a small world! Here I was half way around the world in a tranquil temple garden with a girl who lived 10 miles from where I grew up! We chatted, took pictures and kept each other company on the walk to the gates. She had just returned to Chennai, after studying, to start her career caring for the people of her home city. She filled me in on the history of the temple of the kinds of Buddhism that are available in the local area and of many many more things I can’t begin to remember!

As the sun set, we meandered through the trees, dipping in bookstores, watching people come and go, sweep and pray. Our trusty Tuk Tuk returned on time and we bumped our way back to the port, through crazy traffic and the odd bewildered looking cow.

Dusty and hungry, I collapsed on my bed for a well earned nap… the night wasn’t over… but more on that another time!